Dinner and a Movie
Echoes of French Cuisine
Echoes of French Cuisine
By
Steve Herte
I
woke up this morning with a song lyric in my head: "When the
wint'ry winds are blowing and the snow is starting in to fall, then
my eyes turn westward knowing that's the place I love the best of
all..." Only a few Barbershop singers could tell you those are
the first two lines of the intro to the song "California Here I
Come." I guess they popped into my head because, One, it was the
first song I ever sang in a quartet (as a Lead singer, Tenor was a
little later), and Two, Hollywood seems to be running short of novel
ideas for movies. We live in an era of spin-offs, sequels, prequels,
revivals and mash-ups. On Broadway they use the excuse that
"there's a whole generation that hasn't seen this and show, so
we're bringing it back. Well, guess what? They still haven't. The
revival of Pippin is ridiculously different from the
one I saw in 1970. I don't get it. But I do know what I like and
won't be fooled by yesterday’s leftovers. Neither should anyone
else. Enjoy!
Earth
to Echo (Disney, 2014) - Director: Dave Green.
Writers: Henry Gayden (s/p and story), Andrew Panay (story). Cast:
Teo Halm, Brian “Astro” Bradley, Reese Hartwig, Elle Wahlestedt,
Jason Gray-Stanford, Alga Smith, Cassius Willis, & Sonya Leslie.
Color, 89 minutes.
Have
I ever mentioned that Hollywood has run out of ideas for new stories?
Take the general plot from E.T. the Extra-Terrestrial,
add a dash of Stand By Me, Goonies and It (for
sibling interactions only); modernize the technology behind the
mechanical owl in Clash of the Titans, and you
pretty much have 90 percent of this film. Add to that the annoying
hand-held camera photography of The Blair Witch
Project, Quarantine, and Cloverfield, and the
remaining 10 percent is covered. Then take away the element of
surprise because all of the best scenes (including the spectacular
ending) are in the trailers. Granted, it’s only an hour and 29
minutes long, but trailers should generate interest – not give the
whole thing away.
The
story is simple. Three best friends, Alex (Helm), Tuck (Bradley), and
Munch (Hartwig), are planning their last night together in the same
housing development because they all have to move out for a ‘Freeway’
that is coming through. They notice that their smart phones ‘barf
themselves’ or display a messy pattern on their screens whenever
they visit Munch’s house. It doesn’t take them long to figure out
that the abstract image is a map of the desert outside their
neighborhood. They decide to give their parents cross-instructions of
sleepovers and video game playing at each others houses and take
their bikes out to find where the “map” leads. Fortunately, all
their parents are too preoccupied with moving to take notice. Tuck is
the cameraman, carrying a pair of “camera glasses,” which are
essential to scenes after the authorities eventually catch them.
The
map leads them to a “No Trespassing” area where they find what
appears to be a small, unexploded bomb. It reacts to Alex’s voice
and indicates where it wants to go next on their smart phones. They
name the creature Echo because it repeats any amount of syllables
they speak to it. Little by little it adds pieces to itself at each
destination until it is able to open up, revealing the adorable alien
creature inside. It can understand them if they ask simple “yes”
or “no” questions. One of the destinations is the house of Emma
(Wahlstedt), a girl on whom they all have a crush. When she discovers
them in her bedroom, Emma becomes a part of the team.
They
learn that not only is there not going to be a freeway built through
their neighborhood, but that the U.S. government has shot down Echo’s
ship. They are searching for it and its driver to dispose of both.
The
kids travel back and forth by bike and other vehicles: dodging, being
caught, escaping the authorities, and helping Echo find the necessary
parts to resurrect his space ship (which is enormous and buried
beneath the housing development).
If
it weren’t for the other movies contributing pieces to this, it
would be a charming adventure: it’s well written, well acted, and
fun for the whole family. The humor is subtle and the special effects
are dazzling, sometimes frightening (supported by the musical
background) in their suddenness. I had a special sense of
identification with the story because, shortly after we moved to
where I live now, we learned that the city was planning to extend a
highway right through our new house. Thankfully that never came to
fruition. My advice for viewers of Earth to Echo is,
bring the kids and sit back and enjoy. Go for ice cream
afterwards.
Rating:
3½ out of 5 Martini glasses.
Racines
NY
94
Chambers Street (Between Church and Broadway), New York
Nobody
at my office is going to believe that there is an excellent French
restaurant at this location. I didn’t believe it myself. The block
of Chambers Street between Church Street and Broadway in downtown
Manhattan is littered with “bargain” junk shops, Chinese take-out
places and funky bars. Not exactly restaurant row. Being a savvy New
Yorker, I know that even numbers on streets are on the south side and
I walked from the highest address end of Chambers Street (at the West
Side Highway) down to where I hoped to find Racines. I missed it
twice before I found it. And no wonder: the number 94 is not visible,
but next door, the number 94A announces the Chinese take-out place.
The name of the restaurant is nearly invisible on the glass door,
which is recessed from the rest of the glass front at the sidewalk
and is printed in charcoal gray, two-inch block letters.
Inside
I met Gaetano, who seated me and split his time between being my
server and being the captain/greeter. I dubbed him the
“Greeter-Seater” which he liked. He presented me with the menu
and wine list and both a glass of tap water with a bottle to refill
it. The décor is simple Bistro – open brick wall on one side,
white painted wall on the other, white tin ceiling, and the kitchen
and “chef’s table” in the back. Simple bare bulb swags provide
the lighting. I chose to sit at a table in the front window (my usual
preference, when available).
The
menu is a single page featuring five appetizers, four entrées, the
cheese plate and three desserts. Each description is minimal and
concise (usually an indication that great care is put into the
creation of each dish). After a short interrupted discussion with
Gaetano (he was still changing hats back and forth) I decided on two
appetizers and an entrée. Gaetano enthusiastically approved.
Racines’ wine list is most impressive and has an extensive
collection of French wines, but when I saw the 2006 Cubillo Crianza,
a wonderful varietal of Tempranillo and Garnacha I was sure this was
the one. Again, Gaetano approved.
While
Gaetano was off putting in my order, another server brought the
breadbasket and butter (Fresh, crusty sour-dough bread, yes!) and
the Amuse Bouche – a lovely little creation using
purple cauliflower in piquant green foam with toasted pine nuts. At
this time, the bartender brought my wine, again enthusing over my
choice. It had a strong personality in its nose, a beautiful deep red
color and tasted bright and fruity at first and then warm and mellow
as I swallowed it, perfect!
My
first course arrived, the Veal Tartare, mixed with tarragon and pine
nuts, under a blanket of warm fresh mayonnaise and crowned with
marbled home-made potato chips and water cress. I commented to
Gaetano that it was all I could do to not eat all the chips
separately. But when combined with the other ingredients it was
heavenly.
The
second course was (I thought) a bit expensive for an appetizer ($35)
but since I had a gift check I splurged. Anyway, Morels are my
favorite fungus after truffles and this dish was Foraged Oregon Wild
Morels (frankly, I’ve never heard of tame ones) in fresh, homemade
Mozzarella from Di Palo’s in Little Italy, and aged balsamic
vinaigrette. The earthy tender mushrooms combined with the fresh,
only slightly chewy cheese and the vinegar was so sensual I told
Gaetano that I didn’t need sex that night. This dish already
provided that release. My wonderful Spanish wine kept pace with both
dishes admirably so far.
My
main course, simply described as lamb with shaved fennel, on a bed of
artichoke and black olives and sided with a dollop of salsa
verde didn’t come close to the gustatory bliss it
provided. I generally do not like the flavor of fennel, which usually
is overpowering, but here, combined with the salsa verde and
the tender, juicy filet of lamb the net effect was the best Foie
Gras! Yes, believe me. There was no goose liver on the plate but the
flavor was there. I told Gaetano that if Scooby-Doo and Shaggy had
tasted this dish they would give up junk food forever. He was pleased
and proudly told me that they get their lamb from Pennsylvania.
Then,
with a gleam in his eye Gaetano asked if I wanted dessert. But of
course! This decision was not easy as all the desserts interested me.
But after due consideration the Pistachio Parfait was my choice. Now
you must get the image of a tall dessert glass and a long spoon out
of your head because that is not what arrived. The pistachio parfait
was served molded (in a cup of some sort) and placed centrally in a
bowl and surrounded by fresh raspberries and poached rhubarb. I loved
it.
There
are only a few meals where coffee does not add to the experience and
Gaetano knew it. He presented me with the after-dinner drink list and
I chose the Ravignan Bas-Armagnac. In no time, I had a large snifter
in my hand and was enjoying the heady aroma and tastes of the best of
French distilling.
Will
I return to Racines? Sure, why not? With such a small menu, it has to
change over time and I can pretty much guarantee that everything on
it will be wonderful, especially if Bouillabaisse becomes a feature.
I learned from Gaetano that Chef Frederic Duca is from Marseilles
(where it was invented).
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