Dinner
and a Movie
A
Little Boy, Merci Bocuse
By
Steve Herte
What
a great four days! I should take more short vacations like this. Even
though it took an inordinate amount of time to get to Poughkeepsie
(track work) the rest of the time was fabulous. When I finally met my
sister and brother-in-law we headed straight for the Culinary
Institute of America for the tour. Really, this place is like the
Hogwarts of Gastronomy. It looked so much better than my college, and
the classes were fascinating. The tour guide was well versed and
answered every question.
The
next day, we toured the Vanderbilt Mansion and continued on to
Boscobel (home of loyalist Morris Dyckman), the Hyde Park home of
Franklin Delano Roosevelt, and Val-Kill, the retreat of Eleanor
Roosevelt. So much information. The visitor center had a wonderful
mosaic in the floor mapping the entire Roosevelt estate.
Topping
these experiences were visits to the twin estates of Philipsberg
Manor and Kykuit (the Rockefeller Estate). The first was entertaining
as well as informative because the various guides were dressed in
period costume and acted in character. The second was gorgeous! Who
knew there was an art gallery in the basement? And the grounds were
horticulturally sculptured.
Fortunately,
during this week, one of the hotels had pay-per-view and I was able
to view a movie that left the theaters before I could get to see it.
From there it was easy to pair the film with the most amazing
restaurant of the vacation. Enjoy!
Little
Boy (Open
Road Films, 2015) – Director: Alejandro Monteverde. Writers:
Alejandro Monteverde & Pepe Portillo. Cast: Jakob Salvati, Emily
Watson, David Henrie, Michael Rapaport, Matthew Scott Miller,
Kevin James, Ben Chaplin, Tom Wilkinson, & Cary-Hiroyuki Tagawa.
Color, 106 minutes. Rated PG-13.
James
Busbee (Rapaport) and his son Pepper Flynt (Salvati) have a unique
and very close father/son relationship. James actively participates
in and initiates their fantasy adventures. One day they’re on a
sailing ship in a high storm, the next they could be cowboys trying
to save the ranch. It always works into a dire situation and when Dad
asks, “Do you believe we can do this?” Pepper confidently shouts
back, “Yes, I believe we can do this!” This idyllic lifestyle
lasts only until World War II breaks out and the Japanese attack
Pearl Harbor.
Pepper’s
older brother London (Henrie) tries to enlist in the Army but is
turned down because of his flat feet. Dad enlists and is accepted.
His wife Emma (Watson) understands but doesn’t like the idea and
Pepper is devastated. He’s the smallest in his peer group and is
called “midget” by the chief bully at school, Freddie Fox
(Miller) until his father, the local doctor in O’Hare (James)
determines it’s only a temporary growth condition and Freddie is
forced to call Pepper simply “Little Boy.” The entire town takes
up this moniker and no one calls Pepper by his true name.
“Ben
Eagle,” the magician in comic books, fascinates Pepper and when the
real Ben Eagle (Chaplin) comes to town, he joins the throngs of kids
for the magic show. But, much to his chagrin and embarrassment, Ben
chooses Pepper to assist in a telekinesis trick involving moving a
soda bottle across a table using mental powers only. At first it
doesn’t work. But when Ben unwittingly says, “Do you believe you
can do this?’ Pepper answers with the affirmative he always
answered his dad, and the bottle moves. The audience is stunned –
so is Pepper – and his reputation is improved.
Thinking
he has real power and that he might use it to bring his Dad back from
the war, Pepper consults Father Oliver (Wilkinson) who tells him the
parable of the mustard seed. A little bit of faith, and one can move
mountains. Up until now, London has been defending his little brother
in scraps with the neighborhood children but when he hears about
this, he points up the street saying, “OK, there’s a mountain!
Move it!” Pepper tries using his power and by George, an earthquake
occurs. This literally shakes up the town – including Pepper.
Also
living in the town of O’Hare is an elderly Japanese man named
Hashimoto (Tagawa) who is reviled for being Japanese by everyone,
Pepper as well. Oliver tries a new tack on the Little Boy. He gives
him a list of the Seven Corporal Works of Mercy (although he never
calls them that) and makes it Pepper’s mission to accomplish all of
them. Pepper finds the first two easy after finally befriending
Hashimoto and inviting him to dinner (this covers Feed the Hungry and
Give Drink to the Thirsty). Hashimoto helps him with the rest.
He
learns to knit (Clothe the Naked), makes a trip to the local hospital
(Visit the Sick), sees his brother in jail (Ransom the Captive/Visit
the Imprisoned) and finds a place for a homeless man to stay (Harbor
the Harborless). The last one is the most difficult until a
serviceman arrives with news of his fathers’ death (Bury the Dead).
Intermittently, the audience sees flashes of war scenes where James
lies prone and bleeding and another soldier swipes one of his shoes.
Inside the shoe are James’ dogtags. The wrong man was pronounced
dead.
Pepper
is undaunted. Hashimoto tells him that beyond the sunset is Japan,
and if he truly believes he can bring his dad back, he should aim his
“powers’ that way. Each evening Pepper goes to the end of the
pier and grunts and groans until he’s exhausted. Then one day the
headline in the paper reads that the atom bomb has been dropped on
Hiroshima and that “Little Boy” was responsible for ending the
war. Pepper is ecstatic. “I did it!” he shouts as he triumphantly
rides his bicycle through town to acclamations from the townspeople.
Little
Boy is a four-handkerchief
movie. Be ready for tears because of the many moving scenes. I was
surprised that it left the theaters in a little over a week after
opening. But, now that I have seen it, I’m not too amazed. The film
is about faith and how strong a force it can be. But it’s not about
“The Force,” spaceships and special effects. It’s a simple
story of a small child who doesn’t seem to grow any bigger, but
who’s so full of the love for his father he believes in the power
of faith and, whether or he’s responsible for it or not, brings his
dad back alive.
Most
of the cast are convincing and move the story along believably. The
exception to this is Kevin James. He’s trying to play a serious
role, but you keep expecting him to do something ridiculous, and, in
a way, he does. When it looks like James Busbee will not be
returning, he makes overtures to Emma (his wife in this movie is
deceased). Totally incredible. He’s also the father of the chief
bully. The best acting job goes to Jakob Salvati, who not only had to
keep the faith throughout, he had to change his prejudiced point of
view and is rewarded in the end for his efforts. It’s a beautiful
movie for the whole family. Too bad it didn’t do well at the box
office.
Rating:
4 out of 5 Martini glasses.
Bocuse/Culinary
Institute of America
1946
Campus Drive, Hyde Park, NY
Frances
Roth, a Connecticut attorney, founded The Culinary Institute of
America back in 1946. Its first location was in New Haven,
Connecticut, where the concept (and the enrollment) grew to educate
budding chefs in the art of food preparation. In 1970, the campus
moved to Hyde Park, where the Jesuit novitiate of St.
Andrew-on-Hudson became its new home.
As of 2013, the campus grew to include recreational and sports areas for the students and four restaurants to practice their skills: Pangea, an eclectic, “world food” experience; American Bounty, a homey, American style restaurant; Caterina de Medici, a beautiful Italian complete with Venetian glass chandeliers; and Bocuse, a modern French place whose mission is to make French food “lighter.”
As of 2013, the campus grew to include recreational and sports areas for the students and four restaurants to practice their skills: Pangea, an eclectic, “world food” experience; American Bounty, a homey, American style restaurant; Caterina de Medici, a beautiful Italian complete with Venetian glass chandeliers; and Bocuse, a modern French place whose mission is to make French food “lighter.”
The
whole atmosphere of Bocuse is light. The modern, descending rings
defining their chandeliers hover above widely spaced tables in an
airy, bright space with white chairs, shiny tables and soaring walls.
The unifying accent of the décor is various ceramic rooster
statuettes that also supply the only color to an otherwise
obsessively sanitary room.
My
sister and brother-in-law and I sat at a table just off the middle of
the room with a full view of the glassed-in kitchen. On the cocktail
list I chose a “Basil Martini” – vodka, muddled basil and a
basil-wrapped cherry tomato as a garnish – quite refreshing and not
as strange as it sounds. My sister chose the wine, a 2010 Tempranillo
Blend, which was delightful and appropriate for all our courses.
My
sister’s appetizer, the “Spring Pea Soup” – Jonah crab, lemon
cream, mint, and sea salt croustade – was an amazing bright green
(the color of fresh peas, possibly lightened by the lemon) and
possessing a surprisingly bright flavor one would never expect from a
pea soup.
My
brother-in-law and I chose not only the same appetizer, but also the
same entrée. The “Sweetbread Roulade” – morels, Jambon de
Bayonne in a truffle sauce – was cut on a diagonal and the two
halves stood in the center of the dish like rabbit ears. All in this
dish was subtle flavors. The ham and the earthy sauce mitigated the
signature rich taste of the sweetbreads.
Our
main course, “Rabbit Loin with Tarragon” – preserved mustard
seeds and Riz Soubise purée (rice, sliced onions, butter, seasoning)
in a mustard-bacon sauce – was another presentation tour-de-force.
The meat was served in two upright cylinders lightly seasoned and
beautifully red in color, accompanied by a golden sauce with the
white soubise floating nearby. We both enjoyed the tender, juicy
rabbit and the tangy sauce.
My
sister does not eat “cute” animals and chose the “Noisette of
Veal” – fricassée of spring vegetables in morel sauce. Though
she initially made her choice because of an amusing allusion that the
name of the dish conjured up, she thoroughly enjoyed her meal. I
could tell because she didn’t ask me if I wanted a taste.
All
of this was accompanied not only by the lovely red wine but two kinds
of bread also made on-campus: a sour dough roll and a crusty wheat
bread. Both were wonderful. And the servers were the most congenial
I’ve ever met.
On
our tour, we learned that Bocuse was the place to have ice cream,
made tableside and we made sure to include that in our meal. The
flavor that evening was Lavender. A hand-cranked mixer was rolled up
to our table and the flavoring and cream were poured into the bowl.
Then, as he cranked, the server slowly poured liquid nitrogen into
the mix to instantly form it into ice cream. He scooped it into three
waffle cones and handed it to us. It was smooth, light in flavor, but
unmistakably lavender, and soon gone.
I
had my own dessert aside from this, the “Chocolate Variation” –
semi-sweet chocolate cake, sea salt, bitter chocolate ganache,
bittersweet chocolate mousse, pistachio water, and cassis ice cream.
From the description, I thought it was going to be huge, but it was
dainty and similar to a Kit-Kat bar in shape. I cut it into small
pieces and savored every bite as each bit exploded into chocolate
heaven. The cassis ice cream had as strong a flavor as it had violet
color.
At
this point, my dining companions decided to share a pot of Café
Presse, which they enjoyed thoroughly. I preferred my “Grand Café”
– coffee, Grand Marnier, hand-shaken cream and caramelized orange
zest. Excellent! We talked about our dinner all the way back to the
hotel and wondered how we could arrange to dine at the other three
restaurants.
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